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Price as of Jul 24, 2026. Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.
Range hood installation costs $300 to $1,200 total for most US kitchens in 2026: labor-only for an under-cabinet or wall-mount hood runs $200 to $600, running a new duct to the exterior adds $400 to $600, and an island or downdraft hood pushes the total toward $1,400 to $2,500.
Most US homeowners pay $300 to $1,200 total to install a range hood in 2026, including labor and minor materials. A simple under-cabinet or wall-mount swap onto existing ductwork is labor-only at $200 to $600, while running a new duct to the exterior, adding electrical, or installing an island or downdraft hood pushes the total to $1,400 to $2,500. The hood unit itself is extra if the installer supplies it, typically $150 to $700 for a standard residential model.
| Hood Type | Typical Total Install | Best For |
|---|---|---|
| Under-cabinet | $300 to $700 | Standard cabinet runs |
| Wall-mount / chimney | $400 to $1,000 | Open wall, no upper cabinet |
| Island | $700 to $2,000 | Cooktops in a kitchen island |
| Downdraft | $600 to $1,500 | No overhead room |
Venting is the single biggest swing in a range hood install. Reusing an existing duct keeps you at the low end — it is basically a labor-only swap. A ductless or recirculating hood needs no duct at all and is the cheapest to install at $100 to $300, but it only filters and recirculates air rather than exhausting it outside. The expensive path is a new ducted run to the exterior: cutting and routing rigid duct through a wall or roof averages $400 to $600 on top of the hood install, and roof penetrations cost more than wall penetrations.
If you supply the hood, you are paying for labor and small materials. An under-cabinet, wall-mount, or ductless hood takes 1.5 to 2.5 hours at $90 to $140 per hour, so labor-only lands at $200 to $600 when the ductwork and outlet already exist. Island and downdraft hoods take longer and require working overhead or behind the cooktop, so plan on $400 to $900 in labor. Always confirm whether the quote is labor-only or includes the unit before comparing bids.
Sometimes. Most range hoods plug into a standard 120V outlet, so if an outlet already sits inside the cabinet or wall cavity, no electrical work is needed. If there is no outlet, an electrician adds a nearby outlet or junction box for $100 to $250, or runs a new dedicated circuit from the panel for $250 to $600. Downdraft and high-CFM hoods are the most likely to need dedicated wiring, and any new circuit usually requires a permit and inspection.
Most residential range hoods are 300 to 700 CFM, sized to the cooktop width and BTU output. A common rule is at least 100 CFM per linear foot of cooktop, then add 1 CFM per foot of duct, 25 CFM per duct bend, and 40 CFM for a roof vent. Higher-CFM hoods over roughly 400 CFM may require make-up air in tight, newer homes, which adds cost. The CFM rating mostly affects the price of the unit and any make-up air work, not the base labor to hang the hood.
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A straight swap onto existing ductwork with a working outlet is the cheapest job: 1.5 to 2.5 hours of labor and no duct or electrical add-ons.
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Base wall-mount labor of about $400 plus a fresh side-wall duct run ($400 to $600) and a new outlet ($100 to $250) stacks into the four-figure range.
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Island hoods drop from the ceiling, so a roof duct run, a dedicated circuit, the unit itself, and a premium labor market all stack toward the top of the range.
Total = Base labor + New duct run + Electrical work + Hood unit (if supplied)A range hood install is priced from a base labor figure for the hood type, then adds the cost of any new duct run to the exterior, electrical work, and the unit itself if the installer supplies it.
Where:
Base labor= Under-cabinet / wall-mount $200 to $600; island / downdraft $400 to $900 at $90 to $140 per hourNew duct run= Routing rigid duct to the exterior adds $400 to $600; roof penetrations cost more than wall runsElectrical work= Add an outlet $100 to $250, or run a new dedicated circuit $250 to $600Hood unit= Add $150 to $700 if the installer supplies the hood instead of you buying itCFM needed = (Cooktop width in feet x 100) + duct length + (25 x bends) + roof allowanceSize the hood to the cooktop and the duct path. Start at 100 CFM per foot of cooktop width, then add for duct length, each bend, and a roof vent so the fan can overcome the run.
Where:
Cooktop width x 100= Baseline airflow: about 100 CFM per linear foot of cooktop widthduct length= Add roughly 1 CFM per linear foot of duct behind the hood25 x bends= Add about 25 CFM for every elbow or bend in the ductworkroof allowance= Add about 40 CFM when venting up through the roof instead of a side wallInstalling a range hood is one of those kitchen jobs that looks simple until you price it out and discover the number can swing from a couple hundred dollars to several thousand. In 2026, the typical US homeowner pays $300 to $1,200 total to install a range hood, including labor and minor materials. That range is wide because the words "range hood install" cover everything from swapping a new hood onto existing ductwork in under two hours to cutting a fresh duct run through the roof, hanging an island hood from the ceiling, and wiring a dedicated circuit for it.
The cheapest jobs are labor-only swaps. If you already have ductwork and a working outlet, an installer simply removes the old hood, mounts the new one, connects the duct, and tests it. That is 1.5 to 2.5 hours of work at $90 to $140 per hour, landing at $200 to $600. The most expensive jobs combine three cost drivers at once: a hard-to-reach hood type (island or downdraft), a brand-new duct run to the exterior, and new electrical. Stack those and the total climbs to $1,400 to $2,500, and a premium labor market or a long, complicated duct path can push it higher still. Use the calculator above to land on a figure for your specific setup before you start collecting quotes.
It helps to know what a typical quote does and does not include. A standard install price covers removing the old unit, mounting the new hood, connecting it to existing ductwork, and a basic test. It usually excludes the hood itself (if you did not buy it), any new ductwork to the outside, electrical upgrades, and patching or painting drywall afterward. When two quotes look far apart, the gap is almost always one of those line items — most often whether a new duct run or the unit price is bundled in or billed separately.
| Hood Type | Typical Total Install | Labor Time | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| Under-cabinet | $300 to $700 | 1.5 to 2.5 hrs | Standard cabinet runs |
| Wall-mount / chimney | $400 to $1,000 | 2 to 4 hrs | Open wall, no upper cabinet |
| Island | $700 to $2,000 | 3 to 6 hrs | Cooktops in an island |
| Downdraft | $600 to $1,500 | 3 to 5 hrs | No room for an overhead hood |
The single fastest way to keep an install cheap is to reuse existing ductwork and an existing outlet. A labor-only swap onto a working vent is often under $600 — most of the price jumps come from new ducting and new wiring, not the hood itself.
Two kitchens with the same hood can get quotes that differ by a thousand dollars, and the variance is rarely random. Installers price from a base labor figure for the hood type, then add for the workload your specific kitchen creates — the duct path, the wiring, and how hard the hood is to physically reach. Labor and access are the overwhelming majority of what you are paying for once you have bought the unit.
Read every quote against the list below. If an installer cannot explain how your venting or electrical situation maps to their price, the quote is a guess that will be revised upward once they open the cabinet and see what is actually behind the wall.
Ask whether the quote includes the duct run and the unit before you compare bids. A surprisingly low number almost always assumes you already have ductwork, an outlet, and the hood in hand — the gap reappears as a change order on install day.
Venting is where range hood quotes diverge the most, so it is worth understanding the three paths before you choose a hood. A ductless or recirculating hood pulls air through a charcoal filter and blows it back into the kitchen. It needs no duct, so it is the cheapest to install at $100 to $300, but it does not actually remove heat, steam, or grease from the room — it only filters odors. For serious cooking, a ducted hood that exhausts outside is far more effective.
A ducted hood that reuses an existing duct is the sweet spot: you get real exterior venting at labor-only prices because the hardest part — the duct path — already exists. The expensive option is a brand-new ducted run. Routing rigid duct from the hood to a wall cap or roof cap averages $400 to $600 on top of the install, at roughly $85 per hour for up to four hours plus materials. If you are running or extending ducting as part of a larger project, the ductwork installation cost calculator prices that work in isolation so you can see exactly what the venting line item is worth.
Roof versus wall matters too. A side-wall penetration is shorter and simpler, while a roof run is longer, needs proper flashing to stay watertight, and often adds a bend or two — each elbow both raises labor and steals airflow. That is why the same hood can cost a few hundred dollars more to vent through the roof than through a nearby exterior wall.
| Venting Option | Added Cost | Vents Outside? | Right For |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ductless / recirculating | $100 to $300 | No | Apartments, no exterior path |
| Ducted, reuse existing | $0 (labor only) | Yes | Replacing an existing vented hood |
| Ducted, new wall run | +$400 to $550 | Yes | Exterior wall behind the cooktop |
| Ducted, new roof run | +$500 to $700 | Yes | Interior wall, island hoods |
If you cook regularly, pay for ducted venting. A ductless hood is cheaper to install but only filters odors — it leaves heat, humidity, and grease in the kitchen, which is the whole problem a hood is supposed to solve.
Beyond venting, the hood type sets the base labor because it dictates how the unit is mounted and how hard it is to reach. An under-cabinet hood screws into the cabinet box above the range and is the simplest install. A wall-mount or chimney hood hangs on an open wall and needs the decorative chimney and bracket aligned, adding time. An island hood drops from the ceiling, so the installer works overhead, runs the duct up through the ceiling, and must secure it dead level — that is why island jobs run the longest and cost the most.
Downdraft hoods are a category of their own. Instead of mounting overhead, they pop up behind the cooktop and vent down through the cabinet and floor, which means more cutting, a longer or trickier duct path, and frequently a dedicated circuit. They suit kitchens with no room for an overhead hood — island cooktops with a view, for example — but the install labor lands at $600 to $1,500 before the unit.
CFM, the airflow rating, mostly affects the price of the hood itself rather than the labor to hang it. Most residential hoods are 300 to 700 CFM. A good rule is at least 100 CFM per linear foot of cooktop, then add 1 CFM per foot of duct, 25 CFM per bend, and 40 CFM for a roof vent so the fan can overcome the run. The one place CFM hits the install budget is make-up air: hoods over roughly 400 CFM in newer, tightly sealed homes can require a make-up air system to replace the exhausted air, and that is a meaningful add-on a low-CFM hood avoids entirely.
A like-for-like ductless or under-cabinet swap onto an existing outlet and duct is within reach for a confident DIYer with basic tools — it is mostly lifting, leveling, screwing in brackets, and connecting a duct clamp. Where DIY stops being smart is anything involving new ductwork through a wall or roof, gas-line clearances, or new electrical circuits. A bad duct run leaks grease-laden air into a wall cavity, and a roof penetration done wrong leaks water; both cost far more to fix than the install saved. New circuits also usually require a permit and inspection, which a licensed pro handles as part of the job.
When you do hire out, get two or three written quotes that spell out exactly what is included: removal and disposal of the old hood, the new duct run (and whether it is wall or roof), any electrical, and whether the unit is supplied. A quote that is dramatically lower than the others almost always excludes the duct run or the hood, so normalize the bids to the same scope before picking one. If the project is part of a bigger kitchen upgrade, the kitchen remodel cost calculator puts the hood in context with cabinets and counters, and the junk removal service cost calculator covers hauling away the old hood and any demo debris.
Finally, line up the small details that quietly add cost: who patches and paints the drywall after a new duct run, whether the quote includes a wall or roof cap, and whether a permit is needed for the electrical. Confirming these up front keeps the final invoice close to the estimate and prevents the most common range hood surprise — a four-figure bill on a job the homeowner assumed was a quick swap.
Never pick a range hood installer on headline price alone. A duct run that leaks into a wall or a roof cap that leaks water costs far more to repair than the $200 to $400 you saved taking the lowest bid.
Pin down your venting
Decide whether you are reusing a duct, going ductless, or paying for a new exterior run before requesting quotes.
Confirm the hood type and CFM
Match the hood to your cooktop width and check whether high CFM triggers a make-up air requirement.
Collect two to three quotes
Insist each one states removal, the duct run, electrical, and whether the unit is supplied so bids are comparable.
Check electrical needs
Verify whether an outlet exists or a new circuit and permit are required, especially for downdraft or high-CFM hoods.
Clarify cleanup and caps
Confirm who patches drywall, installs the wall or roof cap, and hauls away the old hood.
Read our guide
Read our guide
Read our guide
Price installs, remodels, ductwork, and home-repair projects, then compare quotes and plan your renovation budget.
Last Updated: Jul 24, 2026
This calculator is provided for informational and educational purposes only. Results are estimates and should not be considered professional financial, medical, legal, or other advice. Always consult a qualified professional before making important decisions. UseCalcPro is not responsible for any actions taken based on calculator results.