124" Width, 24 WPI Cotton, Plain Weave, Balanced
Inputs
Result
Sett = 24 × 0.50 (plain) × 1.05 (cotton) × 1.0 (balanced) = 12.6, rounded to 13. Warp ends = 24 × 13 = 312. Best reed = 6-dent at 2.2 ends/dent.
Recommended Sett
13 epi
Warp Ends
312
Range
12-14
Recommended Sett
13
ends per inch
Working Range
12 to 14
Warp Ends
312
Suggested Reed
6-dent
Ends Per Dent
2.2
| Structure | WPI Factor | Cloth Feel |
|---|---|---|
| Plain Weave | 50% | Firm, balanced |
| Twill | 42% | Soft drape |
| Basket Weave | 45% | Textured |
| Lace | 33% | Open, airy |
| Rug | 25% | Open warp |
Inputs
Result
Sett = 24 × 0.50 (plain) × 1.05 (cotton) × 1.0 (balanced) = 12.6, rounded to 13. Warp ends = 24 × 13 = 312. Best reed = 6-dent at 2.2 ends/dent.
Inputs
Result
Sett = 30 × 0.42 (twill) × 0.95 (wool) × 1.15 (warp-faced) = 13.76, rounded to 14. Warp ends = 15 × 14 = 210. Best reed = 8-dent at 1.75 ends/dent.
Sett is the number of warp ends per inch (EPI) in the reed. It determines how open, balanced, or firm the cloth becomes. A 24 WPI cotton yarn at plain weave gives about 13 EPI sett.
| Yarn WPI | Plain Weave Sett | Twill Sett |
|---|---|---|
| 12 (bulky) | 6–7 epi | 5–6 epi |
| 18 (worsted) | 9–10 epi | 8–9 epi |
| 24 (sport) | 12–14 epi | 10–12 epi |
| 30 (fingering) | 15–17 epi | 13–15 epi |
Plain weave interlaces on every pick, creating the most friction between threads. This means it needs a tighter sett. Twill, lace, and rug structures interlace less frequently and use progressively more open setts.
| Structure | WPI Factor | Characteristic |
|---|---|---|
| Plain | 50% | Firm, balanced |
| Twill | 42% | Soft drape, diagonal pattern |
| Basket | 45% | Textured, paired threads |
| Lace | 33% | Open, airy, light |
| Rug | 25% | Open warp, packed weft |
Different fibers compress differently. Cotton and linen are less compressible than wool, so they need slightly higher sett (5–12% more EPI) for equivalent coverage.
Cloth balance describes the relative prominence of warp vs weft in the finished fabric. Balanced cloth shows equal warp and weft. Warp-faced cloth needs a tighter sett to cover the weft; weft-faced needs a looser sett.
The calculator suggests a reed that gives close to 2 ends per dent, which is the easiest sleying pattern. For example, 13 EPI works best in a 6-dent reed (2.2 ends per dent).
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Last Updated: Mar 11, 2026
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